Moringa can be grown from seed or cuttings. Just in case you want to try, we will share this bit of information with you
Moringa oleifera is such a beneficial tree (plant) in the tropics and even subtropics that in those regions it
should be on everyone’s list of plants to grow, whether commercially or for individual use.
This growing guideline is NOT ordinary and customary. You will not read this information elsewhere, however you will find contradictory information which will tell the reader how simple and easy it is to grow Moringa, “Just push a stick into the ground and it will grow”. Maybe, that is partially true, but will it be growing next year at this time?
The ordinary and customary way of planting is less than 25% successful. Initially the grower is happy because most of the cuttings are sprouting leaves and nearly 100% of the seeds are germinating. However, mold, disease, insects and mere disturbance all take their toll within the first six months.
From NKU, notice the biochar
on top of the soil.Actually, the successful propagation of Moringa requires personal attention to get it past the first six months, whether from seed or from cuttings.
- Cuttings: Should be no less than one inch in diameter and six feet long. Push sufficiently into the moist earth so that the cutting is firm. From that time forward over the next six months do not touch the cutting. Do Not water at ground level so that water runs down the cutting into the soil. Do moisten, but not soak, the ground and do water the leaves. Plant in partial to heavy sun but not complete sunshine. Plant so that eventually the tree may grow out into the open and receive full sun. Planting near a wall or house will serve this purpose. Reflected sunlight makes it easy to maintain optimal
- Seeds: Should be dry, but fresh. Collect from the seed pods in May (Philippines) and plant soon thereafter. Plant in planting bags filled with good potting soil. Place the pot in the shade. Germination will take place within about 10 days to two weeks. Those that take more than three weeks will tend to remain small and slow. After the shoot is six inches move the plant to where it receives indirect sunlight. For instance keep the plant in the shade along the north edge of your building or house where the direct sunlight shines over the roof above and reflects off of a light colored wall in front.
- When the leaves wrinkle look at the bottom side, rub your finger over that surface and if it feels a little gritty then spray the entire plant with about a 20% solution of vinegar. The insects will abate. Some pure soap added to the solution will help it stick longer.
- Find a small quantity of Moringa leaves and brew a tea. Add the tea to a spray bottle so the Moringa is only 1/36th, the rest is water. Each day lightly mist the front and back sides of the leaves. This is simple, the leaves will all be facing the wall where the reflected light emits. So spray on one side and then the other. Do this in the morning and late afternoon.
- In the first two months keep the soil moist by watering lightly once daily.
- After two months reduce direct watering of the soil to three times weekly, but continue the daily misting of the leaves.
- When the leaves yellow add vermiculture castings, if you do not have, use dry cow manure that you moisten before applying or a nutritional organic fertilizer.
- After three to four months move the trees into direct sunlight. Weeds will begin to grow and you must monitor the moistness of the soil. If the trunk quickly grows to the diameter of a pencil and grows about 18 inches tall you are out of the woods, so to speak, that is now a true seedling.
- Soon you will become an expert and will modify the above process to better fit your needs.
- It is suggested that you master the above in one growing season before attempting to move on to commercial growing in the following season.
growing conditions, such as moisture, weeding,
insects (aphids) and nutrient monitoring (yellow leaves)
If you have time, patience, a little land and the will to grow Moringa commercially it can come true. (Don't worry about the market, it is bigger than the supply.) First, see if you can grow 100 seedlings from seed to about three feet in height supported by a trunk that is 1/2 inch in diameter. If you do that correctly you will see that within six months you are a better grower of Moringa than 99% of the rest who continue to say that all you have to do is to put a stick in the ground and watch it grow.